Lesson 3 Matterhorn man
Modern alpinists try to climb mountains by a route which will give them good sport, and the more dif
ficult it is, the more highly it is regarded. In the pioneering days, however, this was not the case
at all. The early climbers were looking for the easiest way to the top, because the summit was the
prize they sought, especially if it and never been attained before. It is true that during their exp
lorations they often faced difficulties and dangers of the most perilous nature, equipped in a manne
r with would make a modern climber shudder at the thought, but they did not go out of their way to c
ourt such excitement. They had a single aim, a solitary goal -- the top!
It is hard for us to realize nowadays how difficult it was for the pioneers. Except for one or two p
laces such as Zermatt and Chamonix, which had rapidly become popular, Alpine village tended to be im
poverished settlements cut off from civilization by the high mountains. Such inns as there were gene
rally dirty and flea-ridden; the food simply local cheese accompanied by bread often twelve months o
ld, all washed down with coarse wine. Often a valley boasted no inn at all, and climbers found shelt
er wherever they could -- sometimes with the local priest (who was usually as poor as his parishione
rs), sometimes with shepherds or cheese-makers. Invariably the background was the same: dirt and pov
erty, and very uncomfortable. For men accustomed to eating seven-course dinners and sleeping between
fine linen sheets at home, the change to the Alps must have very hard indeed.